Le Comptoir de Pierre Gagnaire is his first restaurant in Mainland China and the concept is rooted in family heritage. Gagnaire believes that community begins at the counter, because the bonds that create a neighbourhood are born out of the simple engagements of everyday life: the pleasure of sharing a good story, a laugh, and the magic of a beautifully executed dish with others.
Pierre Gagnaire, Culinary Icon
Pierre Gagnaire is one of the world’s most celebrated Michelin chefs.

Recognised as a French culinary icon, he is head chef and owner of the renowned eponymous Pierre Gagnaire restaurant in Paris.
What were your main inspirations when devising the restaurant menu and concept for Capella Shanghai?
The intention was above all to create a restaurant that was chic, somewhere absolutely authentic that you can go to enjoy good food and drink – absolutely nothing pretentious. The most important aspect is always the quality of the product. We tirelessly obsess about it.
Tell us about the idea to have la Boulangerie in the hotel.
La Boulangerie is an open invitation for everyone walking Jianguo road to stop by, discover our products and have a cup of coffee. Whether locals discovering French bread and desserts, or Europeans happy to unearth a slice of France, the intention with la Boulangerie was to become a neighbourhood destination reinvigorating the soul of the Xuhui District.
And what is it that makes la Boulangerie so special?
La Boulangerie products are all homemade and prepared daily on site. We are not trying to do something trendy; we are very focussed on doing it the traditional French way. Testament to this authenticity is the fact we only use French flour and butter from Noramdy.
Le Comptoir de Pierre Gagnaire at Capella Shanghai was recently awarded a Michelin star. What exciting things do you have planned for the future?
Honestly, the goal was never to go for a Michelin star but in a way, it confirms our obsession for the quality of our gastronomy. The restaurant has now become a destination in its own right for epicureans in Shanghai, which is wonderful. We also do want to remain part of the neighbourhood, focusing on serving excellence to our guests.
How has the culinary scene in China changed since you first visited?
In 30 years, everything has changed. This is a hard-working population. Everything is clean now and standards generally have improved. Of course, innovations in the culinary scene depend on purchasing power, and the Chinese, who are curious and thirsty for pleasure, now have the means to enjoy great food. New restaurants open every day and in order to survive, we need to remain creative and attentive but also true to ourselves, honest.
It is complex and, as a result of the different ethnicities that occupied this town, in a way it takes influence around it and integrates it.

What is it you love about Shanghainese cuisine?
It is complex and, as a result of the different ethnicities that occupied this town, in a way it takes influence around it and integrates it. As a big city, myriad ingredients and influence have been combined in a melting pot to create the current Shanghainese cuisine. It is sweet, sour and spicy all at once and there’s a citywide focus on colour, aroma and taste - quality ingredients and intense and original flavours.
Do you have a favourite local dish and if so where’s the best place to get it?
I love broth, everything steam cooked, dim sum of course. Xialongbao was the first dish I tasted when I arrived so it will always be special to me. It’s traditionally a steamed dumpling with pork stuffing with a natural jelly made out of the cooked skin. When you bite into it you discover a rich, warm broth inside with an amazing taste that’s given a kick with ginger and white pepper.
In your opinion, what is it that makes a good restaurant?
The quality of all the products we use is incredibly important. To find a good supplier you must go out, look into the local markets and ask around: one’s eyes and ears must always be open. What I am really passionate about though are men and women. I dedicate my time and attention to my teams. I am profoundly interested in them and what we serve in the restaurant. They are my main focus for sure.
What are travellers often surprised to discover about the city?
Everything. You need to take your time to walk, step out of the big avenues, to explore every neighbourhood and small shop, to observe people’s everyday lives. The beauty is in that which you won’t find in a guidebook, and the people you meet.


